Let me preface by saying that I am a life-long surfer, from the 80's. What I knew of Miki Dora up until 1990 was mostly from the "Endless Summer". I knew he was a great Malibu surfer from the longboard era but that was about it. In 1990 I saw "Surfers: The Movie" and still remember to this day the unforgettable interview segments that made the packed theater erupt (and most of us knew little or nothing about Dora)! He stole that movie and I never forgot it over the years. When this book was about to be published, I read an interview with the author in a surf magazine and it sounded really interesting.



I just finished the book today and I have to say that it was a great read, one that was hard to put down (to use a cliche'). The 400+ pages never seem too lengthy while reading, and if anything it could have been longer. If I had to make one improvement request, it would be more material from Miki's heyday. This guy was considered one of the best and most influential surfers in the world of an entire era (which is why anyone cared about what he did later)and I would have like to know more detail about that time period.



I like that the book is well written and factually based, rather than trying to cram an author's point of view down your throat. My opinion of Dora is complex, like Dora himself, but it's a story that makes you think and wonder what the real deal was with him. I didn't really come away with any solid answers, but the journey was fun! By the way, I'm not a fan of the title, it doesn't seem to fit the book. But that's just me...

Скачать книгу бесплатно (pdf, 5.36 Mb)

---

Читать «All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora»